
GoGo Bike on the road
Get yourself a big cup of coffee, this is probably the longest blog post I’ve ever written! So, here goes!
Suffice it to say, I’m pretty crappy about getting our blog updated in a timely manner and this is no exception! So many things happen so fast around here that I often don’t know if I’m coming or going and that’s part of what made this most recent trip to Baja so special…

The Perfect Baja Day
Let me start with the most remarkable part of the trip… for almost a week, we were completely disconnected from the rest of the world. No cell reception anywhere and virtually no internet connection. The one or two times I managed to get online at the local internet “café”, which was actually a tiny store selling Barbies and clothing and had a rotary dial telephone on the wall for people to use and no lights on to speak of, it took me one hour and twenty minutes to connect via dial-up service. We don’t ever really pay much attention anymore to how graphic intensive websites are because most computers are so fast that you just don’t notice but when you’re in the middle of nowhere and you are using ancient computers and dialup service, you realize just how slow the world used to be. When you’re completely disconnected like this, an entirely new world opens up to you, that is, IF you choose to open your eyes…
So let’s go back to the beginning… last September, I rode the entire Baja Peninsula with four terrific guys, one of whom was John Welker. Well, about a month ago, John emailed me asking if I wanted to ride down to Baja again because he had a place on the Sea of Cortez and was going down one last time before moving to Florida. I had to think about it for all of a nanosecond before saying YES, YES, YES!!! The other GoGo Girl, Desiree, decided she wanted to go too so the three of us set off en route to Bahia de Los Angeles on Saturday, April, 2nd.
Desiree and I met John at a gas station just north of the US-Mexico border in San Ysidro. We offloaded my bike, Desiree driving the Jeep with the bike rack on it and John following in his SUV filled to capacity with all the things he was taking down to Baja.
We started the drive at about 9:30am and began the slow crawl through Tijuana, down the coast through Rosarito, and then down into the ever busy Ensenada. It took forever to get through Ensenada as this is the place where everyone in the northern part of Baja go to get everything they need. The addition of a Costco and WalMart have changed everything on the Peninsula!

Threatening Skies in Baja
Once through Ensenada, we picked speed as the traffic tapered off but we were on to the long and very winding roads for the next hundred or so miles. At certain points, I was able to travel at 72mph but the sustained winds just beat down on us and I was averaging about 55mph through the headwinds. As we worked our way down the coast, we hit a stretch where it was cold and rainy, or I should say, misty. It was misty enough that everyone but me had their windshield wipers on and since I don’t have any on my helmet visor, I was wiping my visor every few seconds. No matter the weather, I couldn’t have been happier because I knew I was going to spend the entire week riding my little bike and so I happily went along my way. Now keep in mind, there’s Desiree and John struggling behind me because they are in cars capable of going a zillion miles an hour and they’re stuck behind me on a little motorbike, but they were complete troopers and stayed behind me the entire way.

It’s a Baby! The GoGo Bike Meets the Hogs
After a full day of riding some 320 miles, we arrived in Catavina, the same place we stopped during our September trip. Upon arrival at the small hotel there in the “middle of nowhere” desert, we pull up and see eight Harleys parked in the front way of the hotel. Of course, wanting to be the center of attention with my little bike, I manage to squeeze in between two of the Hogs and park my bike knowing that within a short amount of time, a gang of Harley riders would emerge and wonder what the heck that little bike was doing out there in the middle of nowhere! Well, imagine my surprise when the Harley riders all turn out to be from Switzerland and Germany! I knew they were the owners of the bikes because they were all crowded around my bike so of course, I can’t resist and I sneak up behind them and hear the women remarking “It’s a baby!” and some guy chimes in and says “Junior!” I got the biggest laugh as I introduced myself as the owner and explained to them that I had ridden that bike the entire 1,100 mile length of the Peninsula! They were all shocked, most of all the leader of the “pack” because he had been doing the Baja ride for the past 20 years and couldn’t imagine it on such a little bike! We spend the next half hour swapping stories about Baja and then, several margaritas later, we all retire for the evening, exhausted from the day.

The Cove in Baja
Sunday morning greets us with yet another cold, windy, cloudy day and we’re up early to get on our way. We only have about 120 miles to go to our destination but we need to get there early because John has a lot he has to do to get his house operational, including hooking up the solar panels and everything needed to get the water running and everything else. He hasn’t been to the house in over a year so there’s no telling what we’re going to walk in and find and much to my dismay, we didn’t know what we were going to encounter OUTSIDE the house! More on that in a minute…
The 120 miles from Catavina to Bahia de Los Angeles is long and bumpy and you feel as if your teeth are going to be knocked right out of your head from how bad the roads are but I was just as happy as could be because I was back on my little bike. I had really pushed it the day before and probably went a lot further than I should have because within about 60 miles of Catavina, every

Cacti on the rock
part of my body was aching from such a long ride and Desiree commented that I should have just put the bike on the back of the Jeep but I wasn’t about to give up one second of riding and so on this day, I was definitely paying for the pleasure I had the day before! I didn’t care because this part of the ride is one of extraordinary beauty because you see boulder fields that are so enormous you feel as if you have entered a landscape found only on the Moon or Mars. You then come out of the boulder fields and into an endless stretch of cactus fields that are so tall, they are higher than most houses. It is this part of the Baja Peninsula that I love the most! It is quiet, peaceful, strange yet beautiful and something I will always look forward to on each trip to Baja.

Sunrise in Baja

Sand and Mountains in Baja
Coming up over the hill into Bahia de Los Angeles, you catch a glimpse of the bay and you are immediately transformed. Whatever stress you may have been feeling, instantly disappears because you are truly in a different place, one that is so remote you can’t help but feeling like you’re on the TV show Survivor! Now, for many people like myself, the prospect of being on Survivor is the last thing in the world you want because wired up, plugged in, city folk like me have a hard time disconnecting and settling down and relaxing into the rhythm of such a remote place and to be honest, I nearly had a meltdown when I discovered I didn’t have any cell reception and only intermittent internet access with dial-up! THIS is a problem for someone like me and also for someone who is still running their business while on vacation. Perhaps THAT was the lesson for me from this trip… I don’t have to answer every email as soon as it comes in, I don’t have to return a phone call within five minutes, I don’t have to get a jacket out the door as soon as the order comes in, I don’t have to respond to anything and everything the moment it’s happening and yet, that is how many of us have learned to live these days with all this technology and I’ll tell you what, IT’S EXHAUSTING!
Well, nothing shocks you out of your exhaustion like an encounter with a rattlesnake! And that’s exactly what happened next! Our good friend, Joe Berk, from California Scooter Company and fearless leader of our September trip, sent me an email back in September telling me all of the things I needed to bring with me “just in case”. He took great pleasure in pulling my leg about all the creatures I might encounter while in Baja and that I had to come prepared for any encounter, including that of a rattlesnake! Well sure enough, we arrive at John’s house, the neighbors have come over to greet him and while standing there, someone makes a joke about rattlesnakes and Desiree laughs and says “why don’t you turn over that tire over there, there’s probably a rattlesnake under there”.

The Rattlesnake
So, some “smartie-pants” turns over the tire and THERE lies a rattlesnake! I swear to the heavens, I never wanted to run for the hills so fast in my whole life yet no such run was going to happen because if there was a rattlesnake right there two feet away from me, there were certain to be more of them all over the place and that was it for me! No staying at John’s house, I had to go to a hotel, not that the “hotels” would be any better in such a remote place but at least I would feel like there was a bigger barrier between me and the snake so off to the hotel Desiree and I would go! I don’t think the snake really got to me, well, yes, he did… BUT, it really got to me after dark that night when we were preparing to leave John and the neighbors. I bounded outside of his house, into the pitch dark toward the Jeep and stopped dead in my tracks because I realized I might just step on a snake out there and a 180 degree turn and I was back in that house! Now I was trapped on all sides by rattlesnakes even though there wasn’t one in sight and perhaps THAT was the problem! Oh, the tricks the mind can play with you in the dark!

The GoGo Bike Waiting to GO
Meanwhile, as I’m having the rattlesnake shakes, we are told by the neighbors that all of the whale watching tours ended on March 31st. We had missed it by three or four days and this meant that I wasn’t going to be spending the week riding my bike because we were supposed to be riding all over the place to get to where the whale watching tours would leave, so that meant, the rest of the week we would just be staying there in rattlesnake cove!
So there I am, hugely disappointed at no whales, disconnected from the world, surrounded by rattlesnakes in my head, and what am I supposed to do if I’m not riding my bike the rest of the week?! Well, this is where a person either freaks out or they settle in to where they are and start to open their eyes and see what the world has to offer and what living is all about so that’s what I did…

My Corona Beer Commercial Photo
For the next three days, I walked the miles of beaches just to see what I would see. The one functionality I still had available was the camera in my iPhone so I spent the time looking for things I might want to photograph. I guess I wanted to capture this magical place in a way that would visually express how

A Baja Tree
extraordinary it is because so much is said about Mexico in the media and most of it’s bad and rarely do you get a story or report out of the place that make people feel like it’s a place they’d want to visit. Now mind you, a trip like this would not be complete without the requisite murder which is, in fact, what happened on the night we arrived!

Low Tide in Baja
Most media reports of crime and murder and drugs in Mexico have captions that read something like “American Murdered in Cold Blood by Mexican Drug Lords” BUT in OUR murder story, it actually goes something like this… “American living in Bahia de Los Angeles shoots his Mexican girlfriend in the head, bullet richochets inside her head leaving her permanently damaged, leaving two sons, aged 14 and 17 to fend for themselves. Mexican authorities do not prosecute the American, they only make him leave the country and tell him never to come back so he leaves Mexico, returns to the US and then turns right around and goes back to Mexico only to be confronted and killed by the woman’s sons who were apparently in a drug dispute with the American and, of course, a bit unhappy that he destroyed their mother’s life.” Never a dull moment…
So, of the other stories I discovered along my walks were Mauro, the Italian, who had been living there for almost 20 years and decided to open a pizzeria, married a marine biologist from Arizona who was there studying the turtles and built a house into the mountainside but not before importing his nephew from Italy to be the pizza maker, much to the dismay of the boy’s

No idea what this is!
mother. On the evening we had some of this Italian pizza, an SUV pulled across the street in which sat two police officers. I instructed the boy pizza maker to take a pizza and deliver it to the police in the SUV to which they turned on their lights and siren as a “thank you”. One never knows when they’re going to need the local police for something in Mexico!
And of course, there is always rivalry in a small town and this one was no different. For years, there wasn’t a gas station for miles and then one day, there were two; one, owned by the woman who owned the “hotel” we were staying in and the other, by the woman who owns the “yellow store” (the local grocery store). The rivalry between the two is apparently quite fierce and well

Town cemetary
known throughout this town of four families and so the story of the “Hatfields and McCoy’s” is probably apropos in this situation! And before we leave the rivalry, let’s not forget my having to pay for our hotel room by going to the gas station! No one has credit card machines in this little town except for this one gas station and that’s where all of the credit card transacations are done for the hotel so for future reference, if you ever go to Baja, BRING CASH AND LOTS OF IT! And of this gas station and the credit machine, we find a young woman of about 20 years old who speaks flawless English when I present my credit card and I ask her where she learned to speak English so well and she says she’s American and from Ohio and the owner of the gas station and hotel is her grandmother! Never a dull moment in this little town of four families!

The estuary
Now, in the middle of all of this small town drama, I have become sick from eating something one night and am sure I am going to die in the middle of the night. No such thing happened and once everything “cleared”, so to speak, I was ready for the next adventure which consisted of John and I driving along the rockiest, dustiest road known to man only to come upon a small enclave of

A Baja Tree
“Gringos” (Americans) living in trailer paradise! Some 54 “houses” right on the beach on the edge of an estuary that was absolutely magnificent. As we approached the enclave, we were surprised to come upon a guard shack which was manned by none other than “Juan Carlo” which seemed to be just about the only name of every man in town. Apparently, the enclave inhabitants had experienced some theft during the year and decided to put up the guard shack and gate and whenever anyone would approach the gate, Juan Carlo would put down his Cerveza and come outside his trailer to see who the intruders were. In the same moment, an American on an ATV drives up asking us what we’re doing there. After explaining I was on a photo mission to bring home photos of what a beautiful place it is, he invited us into the enclave and started telling us all of the stories associated with all of the owners. Talk about Peyton Place!

Mister B
Meanwhile, “Mister B.” arrives to greet us and show us around. Mind you, Mr. B, was actually a black dog of some unknown variety and spoke no English, had the run of the place and lived almost two miles down the beach at the last house in the enclave. Mr. B. and I explored the estuary while John and our new best friend, Les, enjoyed a beer. Soon, Juan Carlo joined the beer party and it looked like we were going to be there all night! Several beers later, John and I headed back to town but not before the sun was going down and our offroad trek became more challenging as there were NO roads to speak of out by the estuary, only landmarks like bushes and trees. Oh lord, I thought to myself, how on earth are we ever going to get out of here but sure enough, John, a masterful navigator, drove us right out and back to civilization, such that it was.

Enrique’s truck and boat
On the last day, John hired a boat for a four-hour tour of the bay. We were taken to the boat launch by Enrique, whose last name was Daggatt of all things. Apparently, his ancestors who founded the town were British and had settled there as part of the gold rush in the late 1880s. Enrique and I drove inside the truck while Desiree and John rode in the boat on the trailer! Down the road we went, right past the police who waved as we went by and I wondered if they and the pizza recipients were one and the same.
The boat was launched at the dock and Enrique and I hopped in to join Desiree and John. Off we went on our big adventure which would include some of the most magnificent sights, not the least of which was the sea lion pod frolicking in the water and then chasing us as we started to leave the area. Normally, the sea lions are sunning themselves on the big rocks but this day, they were all in the water and we got the benefit of a beautiful display of synchronized swimming AND, the big moment of the trip came when I just happened to look up

Sea lions with their heads out of the water
beyond the front of the boat and out of the water came the back and then… a whale’s tail! As quickly as he emerged from the water, he was back under again, but I had seen it and now, my whale watching tour was complete as was my journey to Baja! Nothing could have been more perfect in that moment!

Heading back to shore in Baja storm
There were countless other moments on this trip worth noting such as the hail that began to fall while we were out racing back to shore in hopes of escaping the oncoming storm, sunrises that cannot begin to be captured adequately by a camera, brief encounters with strangers on the beach and in the streets, having only one channel on the hotel room TV showing an endless string of episodes of a Mexican “novella” (soap opera) and the only way to change the channel in the room was to go into the hotel bar and ask them if they could change the channel and being glared at because the novella is something everyone is engrossed in there, including the 20-something American at the gas station, meeting dozens of Gringos who had chosen to come and live in this place several months of the year, all making for the most amazing adventure.

GoGo Bike on the road
Who needs the internet and cellphones and email and text messaging and noise and busyness and television and freeways and cars and expensive gas when you can get on a little motorbike and just drive for a day and end up in a place like this. That’s what I call “living”!
Arlene
AirHawk 2 Versus Beadrider — Only Your Butt Knows The Difference
I don’t know much about the proper way to write a product review so I’m just going to tell you my experience with two products I used recently: the AirHawk (http://www.airhawk.net/) seat cushion and the BeadRider (http://www.beadrider.com/).
A couple of weeks ago I rode 3,010 miles from Los Angeles to Whistler, BC (north of Vancouver, BC) and back in a week. I think with that much riding in such a short time, I have a pretty good handle on what does and doesn’t work for your rear end!
ARLENE ON HER KAWASAKI ER-6N
Now let me say at the outset, I was riding a sportbike, a 2009 Kawasaki er-6n, that’s a “naked” Ninja 650 for those of you not familiar with this particular bike. It’s important that I note the specific bike because I can only comment on the two products based on being on a sportbike, I CAN’T comment about them relative to a cruiser.
So, let’s talk first about bike seats… here’s the deal… with a cruiser, you tend to get a wider seat which means more of your butt has support under it while riding. With a sportbike, notorious for having horrible seats I might add, you have only about as much support as the bones up under your rear end will carry, which means, you’re getting very little support making long distance riding on a sportbike, especially challenging.
AirHawk 2 Medium Cruiser Seat Cushion
Enter support for the butt! Airhawk versus BeadRider (and perhaps others but these were the two I took with me).
Now let’s consider the first part of my journey… I started out doing the “Iron Butt” Challenge, where you have to complete a 1000 mile ride in under 24 hours. I rode 1000 miles in 21 hours and 56 minutes, that’s without stopping to rest, very little downtime for eating and just stops to fill my tank and clean my visor. As a result, I spent nearly 24 hours in the saddle and I can say with absolutely certainty, the only way to do a ride like this is on the AirHawk, at least on a sportbike.
BEADRIDER SEAT
So why the AirHawk instead of the BeadRider? I have used both products for different types of riding and the first thing I noticed is the difficulty in attaching the Beadrider to my bike. I had to remove the seat which is a complete pain on the particular bike I have whereas, with the AirHawk, I just slipped the elastic around the seat and I was done. For this particular ride, I had the BeadRider attached to my seat but just put the AirHawk on top of my seat without having it attached, that way I could just switch between the products during my trip.
With the BeadRider, I found that through much of central California and other parts further north, the roads were pretty rough and given the lack of support and hardness of the bike seat, having all those roller beads under my butt each time I hit a bump and came down on those beads, it was a pretty unpleasant experience. On roads where they were smooth, the longest I could sit on the BeadRider without it becoming uncomfortable was about 100 miles. I would roll back and forth across the beads just to get my circulation going, but it still didn’t do anything in terms of relieving the pressure on my rear end. It definitely offered a lot in the way of ventilation under my rear end but for long term support and circulation, the BeadRider didn’t get the job done for me.
With the AirHawk, it lifted my rear end completely off the seat without causing me any loss of control of the bike in terms of squeezing the tank with my knees or push steering. It was literally like sitting on a pillow, one that offered continuous support and most important, when I dismounted, I didn’t have the feeling of numbness in my rear end like I had when using the BeadRider or like when riding for 50 miles on that hard sportbike seat.
The one thing I encountered with the AirHawk was that the shape of the cushion, cut for saddle and cruiser seats, didn’t fit my seat properly, which of course, just looking at the cushion, you would KNOW that it’s not going to fit right! HOWEVER, an unexpected thing happened because when sitting on the center of the cushion, it actually forced the air out toward the sides of the cushion which meant more of my rear end was supported, something I don’t think happens when you’re using the correct size for a sportbike. Part of what was great about this was that by getting that support under my rear end, I didn’t feel as much pressure on my knees and legs because I wasn’t having to rely on them so heavily to support the rest of my body. So, sometimes even having an incorrect fitting product (I confess, user error on my part, I bought the wrong size!) can actually turn out to have pretty great results!
So after spending 24 hours riding a thousand miles and then the last two days of my trip, 600 miles and then 700 miles right in a row, the AirHawk provided me with constant comfort, support and no numbness. As a result, for all future long distance rides, no matter WHAT kind of bike I’m riding (this includes scooters too!), I will have my trusty AirHawk cushion with me and I won’t ever have to worry about having Iron Butt again!!!
Arlene